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Friday, July 26, 2013

Delito condena y ejecución de una gallina (Felony Conviction & Execution of a Chicken)

On Tuesday I returned to the MAACC to witness a truly Guatemalan play: Delito condena y ejecución de una gallina. The play was written by Guatemalan playwright Manuel José Leonardo Arce Leal and produced originally in 1969. The year is important because from 1960 to 1996 Guatemala was under its own Civil War. In fact, the U.S. Ambassador to Guatemala was assassinated in 1968, one year before this production came to light. Many people carry the burdens of this war with them and I'm sure this play had some impact on that memory.


The theater troupe responsible for this production is from Chichicastenango, El Quiché, called Aj-Tzay (roughly "los que vuelan"-those that fly in English). The name comes from a tradition in Chichicastenango that dates before the colonization of Guatemala called "el palo volador" (roughly the flying stick). A few men climb to the top of a pine tree cut down to its bole or trunk. After reaching the top they slowly let themselves down on a rope. Chichicastenango is a tourist destination mainly for its traditional Mayan market on Sundays and Thursdays. Moreover, the Popol Vuh originally came to light in this small town. Thus, receiving theater from a troupe from this special place is a  treat for those of us located in the capital.


The play itself is metatheater (or theater that knows it's theater) and it tends toward the grotesque: obscene gestures, lots of swearing, mutilation, guns, and finally, the actual execution of a chicken. Given the avant-garde nature of this show it was censured from Guatemala for some time. For more information about the play itself from the actual playwright you may check this website: Why Arce Leal wrote this work (in Spanish). The metatheatrical aspects include: actors "acting" as if they aren't ready for the play, bringing in a "blind" man to play the guitar (as if he were a real audience member in the beginning), actors engaging with the guitarist/singer on the front row and speaking directly to the audience (breaking down the 4th wall). Arce Leal's desire to blur the lines between fiction and reality created an atmosphere of uncertainty.


This uncertainty played well into the concept I took from the play: we may be actors but what we are presenting is real life so don't escape too far from reality. Indeed, the audience couldn't always be certain if the actors were really a part of the space with us or consumed in their own world. All this said, these actors were not professionals. It was obvious during climactic parts and emotional scenes that each character had simply memorized his/her's lines and prepared to recite them on stage to his/her partner. That really pulled me out of the play (but hey, if metatheater is your cup of tea then maybe the poor acting could be a director's choice to keep us back in reality!). However, with all this said, I am deeply grateful this troupe brought this play to us and am also grateful for any production of theater I can find here!


The biggest turning point in the piece was when the actress pictured above came on stage and directed herself to us. Holding a live chicken she informed us that for practical reasons and theatrical limitations she could no longer continue her roll as the oppressed chicken. Rather, this live chicken would replace her for the upcoming execution. She as well as many others on stage had been turned into an animal. They represented the poorer, more indigenous people of Guatemala who had become slaves under a repressive government and capitalist system. Previous to taking the stage the owners of the chicken farm had mutilated her "beak" with a candle to show the rest that eating their own eggs (for lack of real, sustainable food) was an abominable sin. This wasn't enough so the owners decided to publicly execute the rebellious chicken to stop their mutiny.


They tied the chicken to a trunk and the executioner waited behind with a sharp machete. He simply walked towards the stump and then decapitated the chicken (with a sharp "bwak" from the chicken). About 10 seconds later the larger part of the chicken moved and we heard a noise. It was the most dramatic scene of the play, and I would argue the climax. The "great distributor" came on stage with his assistants and declared how much they had won through their capitalist efforts. The rest of the actors came on stage and declared they weren't chickens anymore and were real humans. From there the play quickly finished and the actors bowed. It was a very quick denouement.


The capitalist/communist argument persists here in Guatemala. The Cold War affected much more than Russia, Cuba, Europe and the U.S.S.R. The U.S. government meddled in a lot of affairs in Latin America in order to maintain their interests and stabilize the region as a capitalist hemisphere. Even at my church there was someone who mentioned this topic saying we could never live in a friendly communal way as Christ would have us because the developed countries had shoved capitalism down their throats and there's no way to reverse it. The whole idea of oppressing the farmers because the "great distributor" wants to make more money is a classic demonstration of anti-capitalist sentiments. I choose not to entangle myself in this debate. Each person has their respective views. I simply want to show that the Cold War capitalist vs. communist ideals have not died away (as this popular Guatemalan play shows).


There were far more people at this event than the previous (most likely because there was only one function). However, for me, the play lacked a lot of "umph." By "umph" I mean something to take away. One of the most talked about ideas throughout the world is the idea of government and corporate oppression of the masses. This play demonstrated that idea through the "animalización" of these characters into chickens. However, it didn't leave us with an idea of how to solve the problem. For me it's one thing to address a problem, it's a completely other thing to be constructive and put forth new ways of thinking about the problem with a solution in mind. This play may have meant far more to Guatemalans during the actual Civil War. It may mean more to those whose lives revolve around agriculture. For me the production revolved around the shock factor of the executed chicken and I left hoping that dead chicken was going to be useful on their long way back to Chichicastenango.

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Pepián de tres carnes (Pepián of Three Meats)

Yesterday my wife and I traveled to the Miguel Angel Asturias Cultural Center in Guatemala City to see a fantastic piece of adapted theatricality titled "Pepián de tres carnes." The MAACC (1978) is a huge complex which furnishes three theatrical venues: The Great Hall/National Theatre "Efraín Recinos," the smaller, more intimate theatre "Hugo Carrillo," and an outdoor venue, as well as other cultural and theatrical spaces.


Inspired by Mayan culture the outline of the facade is a jaguar in a resting position, a prominent symbol among Mayan cultures. In this particular photo the head is farther away with the back paws more prominent.  According to the MAACC website, this structure is a way of saying that there was absolutely no Greek or roman architectural influence. Rather, they created a very organic architecture that fit within Guatemalan history. 

This was my first time seeing truly Guatemalan theatre. When I say truly Guatemalan I am referring to the language, acting, themes, venue, etc. Having lived in Guatemala in various locations (Xela, San Marcos, Guatemala City) with my wife I've learned some of the colloquialisms of this region (for example=patojo, child; nombre=my goodness; a la gran púchica=you've got to be kidding).

Xela
http://diariodelgallo.wordpress.com/2010/08/30/ganadores-de-los-juegos-florales-de-quetzaltenango-2010/

San Marcos

Guatemala City

I have to admit that had I not experienced Guatemalan culture before seeing this play I would have been very lost. As well, many of the traditional customs reproduced in this work are still held today in various parts of the country (fear of going to the hospital to give birth because your baby could be stolen, killing a chicken if you give birth to a boy, etc). While I may be unaccustomed with some of the cultural ideologies of certain parts of this country, I still respect them and note that their cultural traditions maintain their communities united and of interest to extranjeros like me.

The theatrical troupe that is presenting this show is Teatro Barrio Viejo, under the direction of Edgar Quiñónez, a well known actor, director and writer, among other talents. He is also the Assistant Technical Director of the MAACC. He adapted this show from Hugo Leonel Valle y Valle's story book "Una mano de cuentos" (roughly "A Handful of Stories"), which relates the life of a small fictional village, San Gabriel, Sacatépequez, during the 1950's.


The play was set up so that the handful of stories would be woven into about 5, with one single thread connecting the work together. The chronological sequence of the work really depends on one thing: a university professor's obsession with figuring out why more people die after one person dies (it would seem logical but that was farcical side of the show). However, I felt that each scene was supposed to emphasize relationships and characterization. I feel that is what made this play so special. We see a little of ourselves in each of the characters. By the end of the show when the whole village celebrates a commemoration of their village's support of the Panama Canal, every single character that developed throughout the show was on stage. It was difficult to watch just one person because each character maintained their true self on stage. Honestly, it was like watching a group of friends on stage. You know how each one reacts and they are all enjoying themselves. It was real and it was fun.

Each scene had incredible actors. What really moved me throughout this work was the development of character. Each person had a relationship with another person on stage and it was very obvious how each person was accustomed to acting and reacting with each other. From what I've seen among my wife's family, they had each character right on. While there was a bit of exaggeration and lots of puns, it almost felt completely real. I've met a lot of people who act just like them!


Now, I have to say there were two actresses that stole the show for us. The first was Elizabeth Morales who played the midwife of the village and the eccentric drunk at the party. She captivated all or our attention and had us laughing with all her shot taking at the final party scene ("sus quitapenas" as she called them). The second was Ivette Monney who played Eulalia, one of the main characters throughout the play. When she would return from the market to tell her gossip she had us all captivated. There was one moment when she imitated the drunkard of the village wailing after a woman who cursed him. In one moment she was wailing, and then the next she barely could hold herself from laughing. The transition was impeccable. Absolutely outstanding.

With what I've just said I don't give any justice to the rest of the cast. Really, they were excellent. Each had their own idiosyncracies and captivated us without a doubt. For my first experience with Guatemalan theater, I am impressed and hungry for more.


As you can see from this picture the audience was almost non-existent. In fact, they might have started the show a bit late because at 8:00 P.M. there were probably 10 of us in the theater and the show finally began at 8:20 P.M. (what I like to call "hora chapina" or Chapin time-Chapin means Guatemalan). By the end there were about 20 people there.

Honestly, these are incredible actors (professional and acting students) and the only people really missing out are the ones not attending. The show continues to run until the 28th of August on the weekends in this small venue and the price is Q60 each (the equivalent of about $7.75 a ticket). If you are in the area check it out before it closes. You won't be disappointed as you enjoy a serving of Guatemalan culture in this spectacular production.